N.S. Guide to Seoul
This December, I had the pleasure of travelling to Seoul to host my first art exhibition. I decided to stay a little longer and turn what started as a work trip into a small holiday with friends. I was lucky enough to spend time with locals who welcomed me with open arms - taking us out for dinners and drinks, and sharing some truly special, hidden corners of the city.
If you’re planning a visit, I’ve put together this little guide for you.
STAY
If you can, I really recommend staying in a hanok house for at least a couple of nights. Coming home after a busy day in the city felt incredibly grounding - like slipping into a quiet, hidden cocoon. There’s an app called StayFolio, which is wonderful for booking beautiful stays both in and outside the city.
The Chae Dalro - Our little home in Seoul. We loved the interiors, the heated floors, the bath, and all the thoughtful details like custom incense and robes. It was also very conveniently located
Of Onebookstay - Another lovely hanok stay, this one in the Seochon area
Rakkojae Seoul Main Hanok 락고재 서울 본관
Ananti Gangnam
Nuwa Hanok
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WHERE TO EAT
One of my favourite things about Seoul is that some of the most unassuming doors and quiet turns will lead you to the most delicious, local meals. I honestly wish I’d had more time just to wander and try hidden restaurants - many don’t even have English names or show up on Google Maps (I really recommend downloading the Naver app for directions).
Below are a few of our favourites, but of course, you can’t leave Seoul without trying a Korean barbecue or spending some time wandering through one of the food markets.
P01 Kitchen - Contemporary Korean dishes, wonderful charcoal-grilled fish and a great wine list
Horapa - Delicious Thai food
Solsot Pot Rice House
Oreno Ramen - Possibly the best ramen we’ve ever had
Myeongdong Kyoja - Dumpling soup that’s perfect on a cold day
천강에비친달
Yummy, Udon Gyoza
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COFFEE AND OTHER TREATS
We were genuinely surprised by how special both the tea and coffee culture is in Seoul. There are beautiful, serene tea salons scattered across the city, as well as speciality coffee spots open late into the evening. Some places that really stayed with me:
Thanks, Oat - We loved their thick Greek yoghurt bowls
Jidaebang - A place that feels straight out of a forest fairytale; we shared a big bowl of white lotus tea and rice cakes
Jayeondo Sogeumppang - Beautifully packaged (and delicious) salt bread
카페 마 (MAA)
Myeong-Geumtang 명금탕 - A cafe we visited during a quiet morning in Eunpyeong Village, run by an older woman. The tea felt like a hug, and we left with a few ceramic pieces
Mother Offline - Perfect for an evening hangout if you’re not drinking; I love the music and the atmosphere
Tteuran
Sai
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WHERE TO SHOP
Shopping in Seoul honestly deserves its own chapter. The level of care, design and attention to detail is incredible, and we spent a lot of time in quiet awe. It also happened to be the perfect excuse to do some Christmas shopping - for loved ones, and for ourselves.
Jo’s Lounge - Beautiful pyjamas; you can choose your fabric from a sample catalogue
Markt Fahrt - I wish I could have brought home furniture from here; make sure to book an appointment in advance
Amomento
Ojaseoul
Rettre Hongdae - A local perfume shop offering workshops to create your own personal scent
Seoul Folk Flea Market - We found old paintbrushes here
Urbanic30 - A beautiful shop with rotating art and ceramic exhibitions, plus lovely souvenirs
45ID - My favourite photo booth experience; you can frame your picture beautifully and take it home
Muarmus - A Korean brand with great basics; they make my favourite pair of jeans
Room, LFM
Nothing Written - Probably my favourite place of all. A full house turned into a stunning shop, with a cosy café where the garage once was. We had hot chocolate and I came home with my new favourite knit
Lemaire - Always creating beautiful spaces
Parsnips - Right next to where we stayed. We spent ages browsing their objects and brought home a few small treasures - a tasselled hair comb, vintage-style toothbrushes. There’s also incredible furniture upstairs
BFD - Another lovely homeware shop tucked away in the city; glasses and an incense holder made it into our suitcase
Save the full shop pin list to your map here
CULTURE
There are so many beautiful spaces to explore when it comes to art, craft and tradition. These are a few places we really loved:
The Korean Folk Museum - Especially the indoor collection; I was in awe of the traditional garments, hand fans and ceramics
Hanji Centre - A cultural centre dedicated to handmade paper, with workshops available
Arumjigi Cultural Keepers
Rohae - A small gallery and tea salon run by incredibly passionate owners; book the tea experience in advance
Inwangsan Shelter in the Woods - Especially beautiful in autumn, or on a snowy winter day
Won Buddhism Wonnam Temple 원불교 원남교당
Eunpyeong Hanok Village 은평한옥마을 - Just outside the city; a peaceful hanok village surrounded by nature, with a Buddhist temple at the top of the hill
Gallery Mosoon - a small art gallery in the city, home to the most delicate and beautiful ceramics and a carefully curated collection of sculptures. I was lucky enough to meet the owner during my visit.
Save the full culture pin list to your map here
MUSIC & DRINKS
And finally, a few places we loved if you’re in the mood for a cocktail or a night out:
TYMM
Nyapi - Such a fun club; not too big, with an 80s vibe, floral wallpaper and a vintage bar
Rock the Who
Tarsty - At the top of a hill
호롱불 (Horongbul) - A makgeolli restaurant and bar in Itaewon
Entry55 Seongsu - A lovely option if you’re looking for a jazz bar
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I can’t wait to return to Seoul, explore more of South Korea, and keep expanding this guide. For now, I hope this little curation is helpful for your next trip.
With love, Carla x