A Curated Guide to Japan

Last June was spent mostly in Japan, and those few weeks made me fall in love with the country - something I expected, having studied its art and way of life for quite some time now.

Today, I’m sharing a guide with all the places we had the pleasure to visit, plus a few more that I’m keeping close for future holidays.

 

WHERE TO EAT

I genuinely believe it’s hard to have a bad meal in Japan. We ate our way through cities and towns, and are still dreaming of some dishes. Here are a few favourites:

Ichiran Ramen - multiple locations, and quite possibly the best ramen we’ve ever had. Perfect even for introverts, as you sit in your own small booth.

Sushi Ginza Onodera Touryumon - a stand-up sushi spot, well worth it for the quality.

Omoide Yokocho - a bustling alley lined with izakayas. We returned often for the atmosphere, sake and shared plates. Explore the side streets for more places to sit and dine.

Maruman, Kyoto - a fresh, authentic sushi bar owned by an elderly couple. There’s usually a queue, but it’s well worth the wait.

Chao Chao, Sanjo Kiyamachi - the best dumplings we’ve ever had.

Curry & Tempura Koisus

Lorimer Kyoto - a beautiful place for a traditional Japanese breakfast.

Food markets like Nishiki in Kyoto or Kuromon in Osaka - we loved wandering from stand to stand, trying everything.

Save the full restaurant pin list to your map here.

 

COFFEE & OTHER TREATS

There’s no shortage of speciality coffee and matcha spots in Japan. Here are some that stood out:

Onibus Coffee - a beautiful, peaceful place for your first morning coffee.

Rokujuan - for traditional tea and warabimochi adorned with flowers.

Ichikawaya Coffee - we took shelter here on a rainy Kyoto morning and discovered the most delicious fruit, whipped cream, and egg sandwiches.

Kyoto Gion Sanryo - we loved the toast plates with egg, butter, and yuzu paste.

Weekenders Coffee

% ARABICA Kyoto Arashiyama - the location by Tenryu-ji is stunning, especially on a sunny day.

Café Bermellón - a beautiful, tucked-away stop if you’re visiting Fushimi Inari-Taisha.

Le Labo Café - a serene spot in central Kyoto. We adored the Earl Grey tea and the rosemary and dark chocolate cookie.

YUGEN - part café, part boutique. I mentioned their ceramics in a previous post.

Hekkelun - famous for its silky egg flans, made by the loveliest elderly man.

Wad, Osaka - my favourite for matcha and shaved ice.

Save the full coffee pin list to your map here.

WHERE TO SHOP

Lemaire, Tokyo - feels like stepping into a traditional Japanese house. Beautiful and intimate.

Officine Universelle Buly - perfect for souvenirs like engraved combs.

Traveller’s Factory Nakameguro - we built our own custom journals here (similar to Louise Carmen’s, but more affordable), including black sketch paper and watercolour paper.

Ginza Itoya - a dream for stationery lovers and artists alike.

Urbanic30, Aoyama - clean, timeless basics in a lovely space.

Tokyo City Flea Market - slightly outside the city but so worth it. The biggest we’ve been to, filled with gems. Opens Saturday and Sunday mornings - go early!

Oedo Antique Market - more central, and held every first and third Sunday of the month.

Jimbocho Book Town - a must for book lovers.

POJ Studios - for curated, thoughtful souvenirs.

APFR - a stunning boutique for niche fragrances.

Colombo Corner Shop, Osaka - cosy café and bookstore. I picked up a vintage sportswear magazine here.

Save the full shop pin list to your map here.

CULTURE

Meiji Park & Shrine - the lushest park in the heart of the city. We bought charms and a hand fan painted with water irises, just like those in the gardens.

LURF Gallery - also a café. We loved stopping here.

Kyu Asakura House - just minutes from LURF. Wandering this old house on a quiet morning was one of our favourite moments.

Traditional Japanese tea ceremony, Kyoto - we booked ours with Maikoya. They dressed us in kimonos and styled our hair. The woman who led the ceremony was so kind and explained the traditions beautifully. We chose their Gion location - perfect for strolling through the old town or nearby Maruyama Park afterwards.

Tenryu-ji Temple - of all the temples we visited, this one took my breath away.

Kahitsukan Contemporary Art Museum, Kyoto

Vague Gallery, Kobe

Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum

Naoshima Island

Save the full culture/art pin list to your map here.

WHERE TO STAY

There are endless accommodation options in Japan. We especially loved staying in a Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) during our time in Kyoto.

Luxury Hotel SOWAKA

Bird Hotel

Mustard Hotel - we stayed at the one in Shimokitazawa, one of our favourite Tokyo neighbourhoods.

Ryokan Umibe no Kakure yu Seiryu

Asaba Ryokan

Maana Kyoto

K5

Save the full hotel pin list to your map here.

MUSIC & DRINKS

I adore the Japanese nightlife, especially the jazz bars. We visited quite a few across the country, listening to vinyl, sipping Sapporo, and chatting to strangers.

Jazz in Rokudenashi, Kyoto - a small, authentic bar we stumbled into on a rainy summer night.

Grandfather’s

Gen Yamamoto

Little Soul Café, Shimokitazawa - a laid-back little spot with great music and warm energy.

Spincoaster Music Bar, Shinjuku

Jazz Inn Uncle Town

Studio Mule - beautiful space. (Note: it is pricey compared to others that we visited - around €20 for a glass of wine)

MON Gallery & Wine Bar

Save the full bar pin list to your map here.

SHORT GETAWAYS

Places we visited for a day or stayed just one night:

Fuji - we escaped Tokyo for a short break and booked a closed itinerary to see the mountain from several spots, including Arakurayama Sengen Park and Lake Kawaguchiko. We were lucky with visibility and saw it framed by blooming neophilias - absolutely breathtaking.

Nara - an easy day trip from Kyoto or Osaka. We had artisanal mochi and coffee on the main road before heading to the deer park.

Kobe - it was in our plans, but we opted for a slower pace and saved it for next time. The idea was: Nunobiki Gardens, Vague Gallery, dinner at Caldo, then live jazz at Sone.

Takayama - a charming village perfect after hectic city days. We stayed overnight, enjoyed coffee and treats at the morning farmers market, visited the Yoshijima Residence, and discovered a hidden izakaya run by the kindest woman. (No English name - but it’s saved in the guide.)

Kamakura - the final stop of our trip. We stayed at Bird Hotel, and I kept thinking I’d love to spend an entire summer here - riding bikes, taking surf lessons.

Some things we squeezed into our visit: morning pastries at Bread, Espresso &, a bit of boutique shopping, lunch here, the Kōtoku-in Temple, matcha at Hatoya, sunset at Shichirigahama Beach, and dinner at Bills.

If you’re dreaming of visiting Japan, I hope this brings you inspiration and helps you create beautiful memories of your own.

Love, Carla x